From the Magazine03.07.2015

The opportunity to make a woman happy

During FT Business of Luxury Summit 2015 in Monte Carlo I had the chance to meet and talk to Mr. Andrea Morante, CEO of Pomellato. He is a very charismatic person and he was ready to share with me several details about the famous jewelry brand. We talked about inspiration, beauty and women in a special interview for PREMIUM Lifestyle. 

Martina Zaharieva
The opportunity to make a woman happy

Martina Zaharieva, Editor-in-Chief

Where does the name Pomellato come from – who invented it?
“Pomellato” is the adjective used for a horse whose delicately nuanced gray-white coat is dappled with rounded black markings. The Pomellato name was chosen by Pino Rabolini, the founder of the company.

What are the core characteristics of the brand and the main values?
Pomellato designs represent jewels for a new way of living. Jewelry that can turn into luxury fashion accessories, changing every season with the prevailing trends yet very classic in their look. Within the company we say “our jewels are too sexy to be kept in a safe”: this means that Pomellato encourages women to wear jewels daily to match their mood, the occasion, their outfit.

Can you tell us more about the concept of pret-a-porter jewelry and which is the most iconic Pomellato piece?
Pomellato was founded in 1967. Jewelry was rather stiff and used only on special occasions while spending the rest of the year in a safe box. Pomellato’s intuition was to change those habits and that style by introducing much more wearable and fashionable jewelry. We broke conservative traditions. The Nudo is considered our most iconic piece. A ring with a stone completely exposed, ‘naked’, left free to capture and reflect natural light thanks to its special shape and faceting. Nudo is also strongly associated with a great variety of colours. Different Nudos in different colours are stacked and can be worn 2, 3 or 4 at a time.

What’s the focus in terms of materials and design today? What’s the most important thing a jeweler should consider when creating a jewelry?
Pomellato has always been at the forefront of both design and in terms of identifying new materials to be used in jewelry. Today, we are more convinced than ever that coloured semi-precious stones will be very much in demand by the more sophisticated customer. Slowly but surely our Nudo rings will be gifted as engagement rings instead of the more traditional diamond.

Do you believe stones have a particular energy and what do they “say” to women?
Indeed, women do establish a special relationship with certain stones (and certain colours) that become a powerful source of positive energy in their lives. Stones are also a good investment that can be handed over to the next generation.

Initially the company was family owned, then it was bought by Kering? How did this happen and what did this change?
The transition from family-owned to Kering-owned has been very smooth and very interesting at the same time. Pomellato maintained its creative independence but, at the same time it is part of a wider luxury company that provides guidance, support and capital. Kering’s philosophy intends, by “empowering imagination”, to encourage its brands to reach their potential, in respect of their DNA and in the most sustainable manner. In this sense, there is a great deal of continuity and opportunity.

Pomellato ranks among the top jewelry companies by sales in Europe – how do you achieve this?
Innovation has been the secret through which Pomellato has managed to become, in a relatively short period of time, a top jewelry company in Europe. Innovation in its design, innovation in unusual artistic advertising and excellent tradition in handcraft. Last but not least, we have always been on the side of women which has proven a successful strategy now that women are far more independent in jewelry purchasing.

How and why did you change from the financial world into jewelry? How did you start being part of Pomellato’s team?
I had already spent time in the corporate world when I masterminded the acquisition of Gucci by Investcorp. 8 years ago I met the founder of Pomellato who asked me to be his minority partner and to enhance the international reach of the company.

What does jewelry represent for you personally?
A unique opportunity to make a woman happy while, at the same time, giving her a lifetime souvenir of a special moment. The choice of the specific piece of jewelry has to be dictated more by her taste rather than by “his” taste.

What is for you personally the meaning of the phrase “Made in Italy”?
“Made in Italy” means that whoever designed or manufactured a specific piece of jewelry (in our case) is blessed by the fact that he or she has seen beautiful and elegant things with strong artistic heritage. In a nutshell that is our competitive advantage.

At the FT Summit you talk about the influence of new technologies and internet on luxury brands – to what extent do you believe luxury brands should be online and present on social media?
There is a clear tendency towards paying more attention to the brand’s digital experience, to the appropriate interaction with social media and to enhance online sales especially for gifting and repeat business. Having said that, during the conference I indicated that our best-selling boutique in the world is our production site where traditional handcraft, traditional tools and expertise have not and will not be replaced by machinery or technology in Pomellato’s case.

Which is the object you cannot live without?
As a matter of principle, I try to avoid dependencies on a specific object. It puts you in a much more favourable position when you lose that object.

Since this is our Energy issue – where do you get energy from? Do you believe in positive or negative energy influence?
As far as energy is concerned, I can see two different aspects. Some people (and I include myself within the sample) always make an effort to see the positive side of an issue turning it into an opportunity as opposed to a problem. The second aspect is really the amount of energy that you have within you and that you are capable of concentrating on a specific project. It’s no different to a well-charged battery and one of less quality.

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